The south‑western département of Dordogne (part of the historic Périgord region) holds mythical status among gastronomes. Its rocky soils, oak groves, and chestnut woods hide truffles, the subterranean mushrooms that have been called diamonds of the kitchen. 

French gourmands have revered truffles since at least the Renaissance. By the late 19th century, truffle cultivation (known as trufficulture) expanded to 750 km² of plantations and produced about 2,000 tonnes of truffles a year. 

Although yields are much lower today, the black Périgord truffle (Tuber melanosporum) remains the most coveted of all French fungi. This guide explores what makes Périgord truffles so special, explains when and where to find them, describes the rituals of truffle hunting and markets, and offers culinary inspiration. It is designed for travellers and food lovers planning to experience the truffle season in Dordogne.

What Is a Périgord Truffle?

Truffles are the fruiting bodies of certain mycorrhizal fungi. They grow underground on the roots of trees and derive nutrients from the host. The Périgord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is native to the Périgord region of France and is considered the most fragrant of all truffles. It thrives in a symbiotic relationship with holm and pubescent oaks, hazelnuts, lindens, and sweet chestnuts. 

The fungus draws sugars from the tree roots and, in return, boosts the tree’s ability to absorb minerals and water. Périgord truffles prefer chalky, shallow, well‑drained soils—conditions found throughout Dordogne’s limestone plateaux.

A ripe Périgord truffle has black or very dark brown skin and marbled white veins inside. Its aroma evokes undergrowth, dried mushroom, and black radish, and its flavour combines earthy humus with hints of hazelnut. 

Fresh truffles should be stored in an airtight container in the fridge; a sheet of paper towel absorbs moisture. Many chefs store truffles with rice or eggs so the perfume permeates the ingredients. When preparing truffles, slice them thinly and add them raw to finished dishes or gently heat them—excessive cooking destroys their volatile aromas.

Other French Truffle Species

While the Périgord black truffle dominates Dordogne, other truffles are also harvested in France:

Species (Latin)	Common names	Season (approx.)	Notes
Tuber melanosporum	Périgord black truffle, winter black truffle	Nov – Mar	Most prized; peak in January; found in Dordogne, Provence and Burgundy
Tuber aestivum	Summer truffle, Burgundy truffle (T. uncinatum)	Jun – Aug	Less aromatic and cheaper than winter truffle; versatile in salads and lighter dishes.
Tuber magnatum	White truffle (Italian tartufo bianco)	Oct – Dec	Mainly from Italy’s Piedmont; occasional specimens in south‑east France; extremely fragrant and expensive.
Tuber brumale	Muscat or brumal truffle	Dec – Mar	Dark and musky; often sold at the same markets as T. melanosporum.
Tuber mesentericum	Lorraine or Bagnoli truffle	Sep – Jan	Strongly aromatic; grows under beech and oak; small local market.

History of Truffles in France

From Antiquity to the Renaissance

Truffles were appreciated in antiquity—Greek and Roman writers attributed therapeutic or aphrodisiac qualities to them. They disappeared from mainstream cuisine for centuries, then re‑emerged during the Renaissance, when chefs began using them in sauces and meat dishes. 

Jean Anthelme Brillat‑Savarin, in his 1825 treatise The Physiology of Taste, famously called the truffle “the diamond of the kitchen”. He noted that Périgord and Haute‑Provence truffles reached their full perfume in January and were the most highly prized.

The Golden Age of Trufficulture

Truffles became a lucrative agricultural product in the 19th century. Pioneering growers such as Joseph Talon (Apt, early 1800s) planted acorns from truffle‑producing oaks to encourage mycorrhiza.

Auguste Rousseau established a 7‑ha truffle orchard near Carpentras and won awards at the 1855 Paris Exposition. Thanks to chefs such as Marie‑Antoine Carême and Auguste Escoffier, truffles entered haute cuisine, and even British household manuals like Mrs Beeton’s 1861 book included truffle recipes.

World wars, changes in land use, and the loss of traditional grazing reduced natural truffle habitats. Today, France produces about 50–60 tons of black truffles per year, only a fraction of the 19th‑century output. Nevertheless, Dordogne and neighbouring Vaucluse remain the epicentres of T. melanosporum production.

The Truffle Terroir of Dordogne

Dordogne’s limestone plateaux, known as the causses, provide ideal conditions for truffles. The soil is calcareous and well‑drained, and the climate features hot summers and cool winters. Truffles form at depths of 5–50 cm in loose, calcareous soils. 

They require symbiotic relationships with trees such as oak, hazelnut, and chestnut. Tree roots are inoculated with truffle spores; mycorrhizae exchange carbohydrates for mineral nutrients. Fruiting bodies usually develop several years after inoculation when different mating types meet.

Moisture is critical: drought can delay truffle formation, while excessive rain rots truffles. Many growers prune surrounding vegetation to let light and air reach the soil and control competing fungi. 

Traditional truffle orchards also rely on sheep or goat grazing to keep the undergrowth low. Even with careful management, yields vary widely from year to year.

When Is Truffle Season in Dordogne?

Winter Black Truffle Season (mid‑November – March)

The winter truffle season begins when the first frosts arrive. In Dordogne and neighbouring Lot, harvesting runs from mid‑November to mid‑March, although the official peak occurs from December through February. 

During this period, local trufficulteurs (truffle growers) head into oak and hazelnut groves with trained dogs to unearth Tuber melanosporum. According to the Dordogne Valley tourism office, visitors can join truffle‑hunting excursions between December and February and learn expert techniques.

Winter is also when truffle markets and festivals are busiest. The aroma is strongest after a hard frost; Brillat‑Savarin observed that Périgord truffles reach their full perfume in January. 

From December to February, towns such as Sarlat, Sainte‑Alvère, Montignac‑Lascaux, Lalbenque, and Martel host weekly markets where truffles are weighed, inspected, and sold. 

These markets often feature cookery demonstrations and tastings. Sarlat’s truffle festival devotes two days in January to tastings, courses, and a market, while the truffle fair in Cuzance opens the season in mid‑December.

Summer Truffle Season (June – August)

A different species, summer truffle (Tuber aestivum or T. uncinatum), ripens from June to August. The France Just For You blog notes that summer truffles are cheaper and less aromatic than winter truffles, but chefs appreciate their versatility. 

These truffles are shaved onto salads or light dishes to provide a subtle flavour without overpowering the food. Summer truffle hunting is less popular in Dordogne because the region focuses on its winter black truffles, but some producers organise summer hunts.

Burgundy and Muscat Truffles (Autumn)

The Burgundy truffle, essentially the same species as the summer truffle but harvested later, is collected in cooler areas from September to December. 

The brumal or muscat truffle (Tuber brumale), which has a musky scent, appears alongside T. melanosporum in winter markets. These truffles sell for lower prices and are often used in charcuterie or sauces. They extend the truffle season into late autumn.

How Do You Hunt for Truffles?

Traditional Methods

Truffle hunting—cavage in French—requires patience, keen observation, and the help of animals with sharp noses. Historically, farmers used pigs, which are naturally attracted to the smell of mature truffles. However, pigs tend to eat the truffles they find, so most hunters now rely on trained dogs. 

The Dordogne Valley website explains that modern truffle hunters venture through woods with specially trained dogs that sniff out the hidden fungi. Pigs have been largely abandoned in favour of dogs because dogs are more trustworthy and easier to handle.

The Lascaux‑Dordogne tourist site describes how the dog scratches the ground when it detects a truffle; the hunter (known as a caveur) then delicately extracts the truffle with a cavadou or truffle pick. Hunting is usually done in the morning or evening when scent disperses slowly. 

Some hunters also observe small bumps on the soil surface caused by growing truffles or follow a particular fly (genus Suillia) that lays its eggs near truffles. This fly method is more random but can yield results on sunny winter days.

Joining a Truffle Hunt

Many truffle growers open their orchards to visitors during the season. In the Périgord Noir, producers such as La Truffe en Périgord Noir and Péchalifour lead small groups through their plantations. 

You learn about cultivation, watch the dog search for truffles, dig your own “black diamonds,” and enjoy tastings accompanied by local wine. Tours often end with a workshop showing how to prepare truffle butter or truffle omelette.

When booking a hunt, check the season; visits outside the harvest months may not guarantee fresh truffles. Dress warmly and wear boots—it can be cold and muddy. Respect private property and local regulations; unauthorized digging can harm orchards and is illegal. Many truffle farmers ask that you do not publish GPS coordinates of their orchards to protect their livelihoods.

Truffle Markets in Dordogne and the Lot

Market visits are essential to any truffle experience. Markets allow you to see how truffles are graded, smell the aroma differences between species, and buy fresh truffles directly from producers. The Lascaux‑Dordogne tourist site lists several markets operating between mid‑December and the end of February:

• Sainte‑Alvère – Monday morning market is famed for its strict quality control.
• Montignac‑Lascaux – Thursday market near the Lascaux cave.
• Sarlat‑la‑Canéda – Saturday morning market; also hosts the big festival in mid‑January.
• Lalbenque (Lot) – Tuesday afternoon market from December to mid‑March.
• Martel – Traditional “Gras fair” combining truffle and foie‑gras traders.

During markets, truffle growers and courtier (brokers) carefully sort the truffles. The best specimens are firm, dark, with marbled veins, and emit a strong aroma. Buyers often carry small scales to weigh truffles; transactions are typically in cash. The markets also feature culinary demonstrations. 

The Sarlat market begins at 9 a.m. on Saturday, with a Michelin‑starred chef ringing a bell to open the trading. Visitors can smell and touch the truffles, learning to distinguish the winter truffle from other species. In nearby squares, chefs prepare croustous—small bites such as scallop carpaccio with truffle, truffle risotto, and truffle‑duck breast tartare.

Lalbenque Truffle Market

The Lalbenque market in the Lot département is particularly atmospheric. The market takes place every Tuesday from December to the end of February. Retail sales begin under the town hall at 14:30, while wholesale transactions start at 15:00 along the market street. 

The opening day features ribbon‑cutting and musical entertainment, and there are demonstrations at a nearby truffle farm at 15:30. During school holidays, the programme includes guided truffle walks at 10:00. This market underscores how deeply truffles are woven into local culture.

Festivals Celebrating Truffles

Sarlat Truffle Festival

The historic town of Sarlat‑la‑Canéda, capital of Périgord Noir, celebrates the truffle with a full‑on truffle and foie‑gras weekend every January. The Dordogne Valley tourism office notes that novices and connoisseurs flock to the festival for tastings, courses, workshops, and get‑togethers. 

The event is timed to coincide with the winter peak; “January… frost glitters on the ground and mist lingers in the valley… this is when truffles reach their peak”. During the weekend, the market relocates to Place de la Liberté and Place du Peyrou, where top chefs demonstrate truffle cookery. 

Activities include:

• Special market – moved from Rue Fénelon; opened by a Michelin‑starred chef.
• Truffle patch visit – demonstration of truffle hunting at La Sauça Vielha.
• Wine pairing courses – tasting wines from Bergerac and Duras with truffle dishes.
• Cooking classes – preparing scallop carpaccio with truffle, oeufs mimosa with black truffle and chocolate–truffle soufflé.
• Croustous stands – offering truffle‑based tapas.

The festival emphasises accessibility; visitors can taste small bites for a few euros and learn to cook with truffles at home. A 30‑gram truffle costs around €30.

Cuzance Truffle Fair

In the Lot département, the truffle fair in Cuzance opens the season in mid‑December. It features a gastronomic meal with dishes such as truffle risotto and brouillade aux truffles (scrambled eggs with truffle). Visitors can taste, buy and cook truffles and meet producers. Many locals consider this fair the start of the festive season.

Other Regional Events

Périgueux, capital of the Dordogne département, hosts a truffle festival and market in January. Smaller fairs occur in Sainte‑Alvère and Sorges (home to the Sorges truffle museum). Throughout winter, restaurants across Dordogne feature truffle‑themed menus pairing the prized fungus with local foie gras, walnuts, and Cahors wines. Booking ahead is essential.

Buying, Storing and Cooking Truffles

Choosing a Quality Truffle

When purchasing truffles, use your senses. A ripe Périgord truffle is black with white veins. According to the Lascaux‑Dordogne guide, avoid truffles that are grey or completely black—grey indicates it is unripe; all‑black suggests it has been frozen. 

The truffle should be firm to the touch; a soft texture can indicate damage or freezing. Smell is crucial: a good truffle emits a strong, pleasant aroma. Truffle growers at markets are usually happy to let buyers sniff the product and will explain how to select the best specimens.

Storing Truffles at Home

Fresh truffles are highly perishable. Wrap a truffle in a paper towel, place it in an airtight container, and store it in the refrigerator. Change the paper towel daily to avoid mould. For longer storage, freeze the whole truffle: wrap it tightly in foil or vacuum‑seal it. 

Alternatively, store a truffle in a jar of uncooked rice; the rice absorbs moisture and the truffle aroma, producing fragrant risotto rice. You can also store truffles with eggs—the porous shells absorb the aroma, which infuses the eggs and produces spectacular omelettes.

Culinary Uses

Black truffles pair beautifully with eggs, potatoes, pasta, rice and creamy sauces. In Dordogne, a classic dish is omelette aux truffes—a simple omelette topped with truffle shavings. Truffles also elevate foie gras, pâté de campagne, risotto, mashed potatoes, poultry and game. 

Sarlat’s festival showcases creative combinations such as truffle ice cream, crème brûlée, scallop carpaccio with truffle, and duck tartare. Because heat diminishes aroma, add truffle shavings at the end of cooking or fold them into butter to spread on toast.

Infusing Ingredients

Truffles are excellent for infusing other ingredients. Store them with eggs to create truffle‑scented omelettes and custards. Bury slices in rice, then use the rice to make risotto. Infuse cream for truffle ice cream, or butter for spreading. Even simple dishes like mashed potatoes or pasta become luxurious with a teaspoon of truffle butter.

Cultivation and Conservation

Establishing a Truffle Orchard

Modern truffle cultivation involves inoculating tree seedlings with truffle spores and planting them in suitable soils. The Truffle Farm in Canada notes that inoculation is just the beginning; growers must monitor soil composition, temperature, spacing, and symbiotic relationships. 

Proper spacing allows light penetration and air circulation, essential for truffle development. Farmers often incorporate calcareous amendments and irrigate during drought. Even with meticulous care, yields are unpredictable—truffle cultivation remains partly a labour of love and patience.

Regulation and Sustainability

Truffles in France are protected by regulations. Only the landowner or a person with permission may harvest truffles; fines apply for illegal digging. Markets often have quality control committees to ensure that only mature, healthy truffles are sold. 

When joining a truffle hunt, follow the guide’s instructions and do not disturb the soil unnecessarily. Sustainable practices—leaving some truffles underground to propagate spores, maintaining host trees, and preventing soil compaction—ensure future harvests.

Threats and Climate Change

Changing agricultural practices, urbanisation, and climate change threaten natural truffle habitats. Warmer winters can delay or diminish fruiting, while intense summer droughts stress host trees. Some growers experiment with irrigation, mulching, and shading to mitigate these effects. 

Research into controlled mycorrhization and soil microbes aims to improve truffle yields without harming ecosystems. Supporting local truffle growers by buying from markets and participating in regulated hunts helps sustain this heritage.

Exploring the Dordogne Truffle Trail

A journey through Dordogne during truffle season combines gastronomy, history, and beautiful landscapes. Start in the medieval town of Sarlat‑la‑Canéda with its cobbled streets and Saturday truffle market. Attend the January festival, taste croustons, and join a truffle‑hunting demonstration. From there, drive to Sainte‑Alvère for a Monday market and sample truffle‑flavoured cheeses and walnut bread.

Continue to Montignac‑Lascaux, where the Thursday market pairs nicely with a visit to the famous Lascaux cave. Nearby Sorges hosts a truffle ecomuseum that explains the biology and history of truffles and offers guided hunts. In Lalbenque (Lot), join the Tuesday afternoon market and watch brokers weigh and grade truffles under the plane trees. The Martel Gras fair offers foie gras and truffle markets side by side.

For those wanting an immersive experience, stay at a truffle farm such as Péchalifour or La Truffe en Périgord and participate in the morning cavage, followed by cooking classes and tastings. Pair your truffle adventures with visits to Dordogne’s castles, prehistoric caves, and river valleys for a well‑rounded trip.

Tips for a Memorable Truffle Experience

• Plan ahead: Book hunts and accommodation early, especially around the January festival. Many farms welcome only small groups.
• Go during peak season: For the most aromatic truffles, visit from mid‑December to February.
• Bring cash: Markets often operate on a cash basis. Prices fluctuate based on availability and quality; expect to pay about €30 for 30 g of black truffle.
• Use your senses: When buying, look for firm, marbled truffles with a strong aroma.
• Respect the environment: Do not dig on private property without permission. Stay on paths during hunts.
• Try local dishes: Don’t limit yourself to truffle omelettes. Taste truffle risotto, foie‑gras with truffle, truffle‑infused cheeses, and even desserts.

Extend Your Truffle Journey at Château de Lasfonds

After a morning spent exploring Dordogne’s truffle markets or joining a hunt in oak groves, having a comfortable base nearby makes all the difference. Château de Lasfonds offers that perfect balance of access and retreat.

Located on the Périgord Vert–Charente border, it’s an easy drive to Sarlat’s famous January festival, Lalbenque’s Tuesday market, and Sainte-Alvère’s winter truffle auctions. Spend your days sourcing Périgord’s prized black truffle, then return to a quiet 6.5-hectare estate surrounded by countryside views.

When you’re not exploring, you can unwind by the heated pool, walk private park trails, or prepare truffle-infused meals in a chef-ready kitchen. The château combines historic character with modern amenities like high-speed Wi-Fi, climate-controlled suites, and a state-of-the-art audio system.

Easily reached by TGV from Paris or nearby Bordeaux and Bergerac airports, Château de Lasfonds turns Dordogne’s truffle season into a full luxury experience — whether you’re traveling as a couple, a family, or a private group.

Enquire directly with Château de Lasfonds to check availability, request chef recommendations, or plan your perfect truffle-season itinerary.

FAQs about Truffles in Dordogne